How the Age-Old French Craft of Affinage is Revolutionising the UK Cheese Industry 

Cheese Affineurs in the UK

The world of cheese is full of rich traditions, and one of the oldest and most revered crafts has recently found its place at the forefront of the UK’s artisanal cheese movement. Affinage, the delicate art of maturing and refining cheese to perfection, has made waves in the UK, thanks in no small part to the Academy of Cheese’s Affineur of the Year competition. This prestigious event, now in its fourth year, has triggered an exciting transformation, bringing the French technique of affinage into the heart of British cheesemaking and cheesemongering, and creating new opportunities for growth, innovation, and commercial success. 

What is Affinage? 

Affinage is a centuries-old process that plays a vital role in bringing out the best qualities in cheese. It involves the careful monitoring and control of temperature, humidity, and aging conditions to ensure that the cheese matures in a way that enhances its flavours and textures. The French have long been the masters of this craft, with affinage being an essential part of cheesemaking in regions like Normandy and Burgundy. 

However, the art of affinage isn’t just about waiting for cheese to mature; it’s about actively engaging with the cheese during its aging process, turning it from a simple product into a refined masterpiece. Whether it’s rotating, brushing, washing, or wrapping cheeses in different materials, each decision impacts the final taste, texture, and aroma of the product. 

Totally lost? Read our beginners guide to Cheese Affinage

The Academy of Cheese’s Affineur of the Year Competition: A Game Changer 

The Academy of Cheese has always recognised the integral nature of affinage within the overall business of making and selling cheese, with whole modules within our tiered education programme dedicated to the topic.   Shining a light on this often-forgotten craft, Maturation, Affinage and Grading are studied at each level of certification, from Associate (Level One) to Fellow (Level Three), with technical contributions from industry experts, including Ruth Raskin, Cheese Care & Quality Manager at The Fine Cheese Co.   

But it was the Academy’s Affineur of the Year competition that has really acted as a catalyst for change in the UK. Launched with the intention of celebrating the talent of those responsible for maturing cheeses, it’s helped to elevate affinage from a little-known craft to a revered ancillary professional in the British cheese world. 

The competition encourages cheesemakers and mongers to push the boundaries of what’s possible with maturation, resulting in some truly innovative cheeses that showcase new techniques, flavours, and textures. This year marks the fourth year of the competition, and its impact has been profound. Not only does it offer recognition and prestige to the winners, but it has also opened doors to new commercial opportunities for cheesemakers and affineurs across the UK. 

New Breed of Cheesemakers/Affineurs 

Thanks to the competition, a new wave of cheesemakers/affineurs has emerged, ready to innovate and redefine what British cheese can be. This includes a handful of talented artisans who have turned their focus to refining their cheeses using techniques honed through the competition. Several UK-based cheesemaker/affineurs, having participated in the competition, are now producing entirely new cheeses—products that would not have existed without the competition’s influence. 

These cheeses are attracting attention from connoisseurs and buyers alike, signalling a shift in the UK’s cheese industry. The success stories of these new products also underline a key point: the value of UK artisanal cheese is on the rise. 

Bidlea Blue: A Nod to Cheshire Roots 

The innovative atmosphere at last June’s finals event inspired Claire Burt, founder of Burt’s Cheese, to create a new cheese: Bidlea Blue. Eager to step beyond her existing four-cheese repertoire, Claire, who had always wanted to honour her Cheshire roots, decided to channel her newfound confidence into crafting a distinctive Cheshire-style cheese. 

Partnering with fellow cheesemaker Tom Partridge, she blended her expertise in wrapping, piercing, and washing cheese with a spirit of experimentation. After several months of fine-tuning, Bidlea Blue has emerged as her fifth creation. Taking the name from her recent relocation to  Bidlea Dairy in Holmes Chapel, the cheese uses the pasteurised milk from the Dairy’s own herd of Holstein Friesians, whilst the vine leaves used to wrap the cheeses are soaked in Herefordshire-based Gwatkins Cider.  The result is a stunningly handsome cheese, which once cut into, reveals an even distribution of veining and delivers boozy, fruity notes, which get spicier with age.  Launched earlier this month, Bidlea Blue has already garnered strong support and interest from local cheesemongers and national distributors alike.   

Quicke’s x Brindisa Clothbound Cheddar with a Spanish Twist 

A unique collaboration between Brindisa and Quicke’s Cheese has brought forth a new “limited edition” cheese that combines the rich, traditional English craftsmanship of Quicke’s Clothbound Cheddar with the distinctive flavours of Spanish affinage techniques. This exciting partnership is the result of the Affineur of the Year competition, an event that both Quicke’s and Brindisa have been integral to since its inception in 2022. Building on their shared passion for excellence in cheese maturation, the two have worked together to create a smaller, more compact version of Quicke’s famous cheddar, matured with a distinctly Spanish flair. 

At just a few days old, the cheddar heads from Quicke’s Cheese down in Devon to Brindisa’s maturation rooms in Balham, where the affinage process takes an exciting turn. In this special collaboration, the cheese is surrounded by a diverse array of Spanish cheeses, allowing it to absorb the unique microflora of Brindisa’s cheese cave over the course of three months, imbuing the cheddar with subtle and distinctive flavours. To complete the transformation, a paprika rub is applied to the surface, inspired by the traditional methods used to create Menorcan Mahón cheese, known for its bold, spiced exterior. 

The result is a beautifully complex cheese that balances the buttery notes of Quicke’s clothbound cheddar with a subtle smokiness. The paprika rub adds not only a fiery-coloured rind to the cheese, but also an extra layer of complexity, while the surrounding Spanish cheeses influence the maturation, creating a fascinating fusion of British and Spanish cheesemaking traditions. 

Neal’s Yard Dairy Retail Manager Sparks Internal Competition Inspired by Affineur of the Year Enthusiasm 

At Neal’s Yard Dairy, a passion for cheese runs deep, and the excitement surrounding Affineur of the Year has always sparked immense enthusiasm among their team. Since the competition’s inception in 2022, Neal’s Yard Dairy has participated every year, sending teams from retail, wholesale, export and production. This year, Retail Manager, Estelle Reynolds, decided to take the opportunity to foster even greater team spirit and appreciation for the craft of affinage by launching their own internal competition using Joe Schneider’s Stichelton — a cheese that takes centre stage during the run-up to Christmas. 

Each department took ownership of the maturing process, but the approach was uniquely their own. The Covent Garden retail team, led by Orla Jackson, took a creative turn by wrapping their cheese in vine leaves soaked in Marsala, adding a layer of complexity to the flavour profile. Whilst the Borough shop team, lead by Eva Tong, mindful of the cold temperatures famously found in the Neal’s Yard Dairy shops, opted to use the warmth of the staff kitchen as a makeshift maturing room to help regulate the cheese’s environment. These inventive approaches were just a glimpse into the diversity of methods used, with seven teams entering their cheeses into the competition.  It was Eva’s team, incidentally, that won the competition.

A panel of industry experts, including Joe Schneider himself, Ben Harris from Ticklemore Cheese, and Sarah Appleby of Appleby’s Dairy, was tasked with judging the entries. Whilst the competition cheeses will not be available for sale, the event served as a valuable learning experience for all involved; one of the most notable outcomes of the competition was the heightened appreciation among the mongers for the skill of affinage and the challenges involved in maturing cheese—especially when seasonal variables come into play.  

I have really enjoyed taking part in the Affineur of the Year competition, it gives us mongers a chance to think about and appreciate the work of the cheesemakers in a way that we might not normally think about. It is also a great way to understand how changes to the maturation of one type of cheese can impact the final result and change it into an entirely new cheese!

Orla Jackson, Neal’s Yard Dairy

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New Cheese Cave Concepts

Having dedicated cheese maturation rooms is an investment every serious affineur will want to consider; not only do they help to control temperature and humidity, with different zones for different levels, they also play a pivotal part in the microbiome that contributes to mould growth and is crucial to flavour development. However, it appears that you don’t need a whole room, nor do you have to go to huge expense. The Neal’s Yard Covent Garden team repurposed a cabinet and called it “Santiago’s Sauna”, whilst last year’s winner of Affineur of the Year, Owen Davies of Tŷ Caws, created a stand-alone “coal cave” to mature his winning cheddar.

Commercial Opportunities for UK Cheesemakers 

The rise of affinage is not just a boon for cheese lovers—it’s creating new avenues for the UK’s artisanal cheese industry to thrive. With increasing demand for unique cheeses with high quality provenance, the expertise of affineurs is becoming more valuable than ever before. These highly skilled professionals not only elevate the cheeses they mature but also foster relationships with suppliers, retailers, and consumers, boosting the reputation and reach of UK cheeses across the world.

A Bright Future for UK Artisanal Cheese 

The transformative power of affinage has breathed new life into the UK’s cheese industry, helping artisanal producers differentiate themselves in an increasingly competitive market. The Affineur of the Year competition has proven to be a powerful force, elevating the craft of affinage and driving innovation. 

As more cheesemakers embrace the art of affinage and refine their techniques, the possibilities are endless. The future of UK artisanal cheese looks brighter than ever, with new flavour profiles, textures, and commercial opportunities waiting just around the corner.  

So, whether you’re a cheese lover or an industry professional, it’s clear: the age-old French craft of affinage is causing quite a stir in the UK, and it’s a delicious revolution that’s set to propagate.