#TNCN with Charlie Turnbull & Noemie Richard: Tour des Fromages de France #1 Massif central: roquefort, Saint Agur and Bleu d’Auvergne
Live Broadcast On: 26th May 2020
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Massif central: roquefort, Saint Agur and Bleu d’Auvergne Episode Video Transcript
Good evening everybody my name is Charlie Turnbull tonight we are talking with the Academy of Cheese. Because it’s Tuesday because it’s locked down or on the TV and what have we got show today what we actually have started something today we are beginning the tour de forma de force and
I’ve got some people say that a lot better than me I will try the French accent she’s got a real one so no Amy are you ready for joining in are you there this is no recharge it is superb I don’t say I do love your parade I wanted to be a fresh Pichet for this at all deposits match I just need my fire my baguette bread and to go and find us immediate Pierre and we’ll be there in a second the cheese yeah we’ve got the cheese so go cheese so no me you are you better you you are an expert a French cheese but you’ve been around the world a bit you spent some time in South America yeah actually I have alternatives with cheese and I started actually in Chile making cheese in there smooth goods factories and then again you know who a student of life brought me to build the school of cheese for Chile and after South America and I really really had a great time of those eggs today also have great wines you know what we say about cheese wine we had brick dock on a couple of weeks ago who went in search of llama cheese did you ever make norma cheese llama cheese what do you mean cheese made with milk obviously but yeah yeah so in South America approximate indoors but it would be very very small production and because Ilana will not be able to give more than a liter a day it’s starting that’s really really yeah you can get milk malama that it’s very good for making cheese and you can’t get much of it anyway enough South America chat and that’s South with it so you started the Akula fromage over there in Europe do try to teach the Europeans about cheese I mean that really is sucking eggs for grandmothers isn’t it yeah to do an actually it was a great experience over there because we really used to work closely with with the sheriff with the seminary and there’s too many things to do you know to bring the producer together with the user this is what I’m now in a mission to do for us events now is called flash and together with the Academy of cheese which is again another amazing initiative well I’m good hearing I mean that’s how we met we you know we’ve fellow cheese teachers is a cheese teacher we are we are yeah man absolutely love it so now let’s let’s get started I’m we’ve chatted we’re going to do these every two or three months and we decided you decided that you wanted to go with the massive central as the kickoff so I believe you sent me on an image of the yeah as you can see it’s it’s not because it’s one of the crystals on the ground this is the outcome of the labor from the volcanic now because of the erosion we can access to this incredible tweezers and this also without the plenty of around around the volcanoes they’ll surround you both libras cameo of Cascades and this time Danny’s around and maybe lots of the massive Santa Marta would be well the cow are erased so the lumberyard is one of the main now and the cow or completely be grazing the year and really well adapted so to summer we’ve got this bloody great hill in the middle of France with the Rowan on the one side and the Atlantic on the other I mean is that is that what we’re saying cool now basically it’s good grazing pasture I mean I’ve heard that your mom belly our cows are like the poshest cows in France I mean are they that top notch the moment you’re not married in one barrel is second biggest producers and they are very beautiful proteins serious both Pazuzu know about putting witnesses there is the as the bitter chap like le which is a great element for she’s making rid of this because we’ve got a little bit of feedback and we don’t want that time so witness cheeses so can you name some cheeses coming out of the massive central I mean I know one of these is going to be my favorite so sure so and actually the massive sorrel is the first region for PDO so the most biggest video production comes from the massive stones man and many zeros for the northern part of the massive stock car we’ve got blue cheese you know in France it’s region is really an but almost all the supermarket’s produced for more than 50 years and it comes from one single primarily in Bozak so really the most important and it’s moving a cow milk it’s got many secrets this cheese and I couldn’t even find myself find out all the secrets but um well one of the main points to get this unique flavors is the washing of the rind with with the salt this is really washed and sorted and this will allow the the half of the cheese to be very creamy with everything talked about people wanting to get into the cheese’s is anybody out there they can hear it and they can hear us having the center ger tonight so one of the classic things about this cheese as you’re saying is it is incredibly smooth yes it is all these cheese’s have what you might think of a similar cavern type of cheese mold so this is contrasting what you might with with what the British the Stilton style which has a spider’s web cheese long soft gone focus my friend exactly and as you as you see and we see there’s a difference with the other one we’re gonna try the the mold here is very blue greeting it’s it’s it’s very you know fresh color and there’s a difference with the is the next one is a rockfall so and you can see big channels big holes with what we call the velvet texture so literally the de mode will give this velvety texture you can feel it in your mouth they’re like little bits of well mold but cloth almost but it breaks up very easy so this is this is a cheese that very much puts cream at the heart of its flavor profile that’s what it’s got a very clean traditional milky flavor but creative so YouTube it’s washed rind I didn’t know that it’s a it’s sorted what so it’s just it’s just by with with the hands we can oh no we’re gonna make a crystal and crystallization of the right and this will allow more to develop inside the cheese and and being really protected with with the return of some rights during the the maturation and it’s really a cheese that it’s a balance between intensity you know it’s the power of the Cavey notes with the sweetness and the creaminess of the face and I really really recommend that is with them with you know light like white wine but we want some fruitiness in the ones just to say that if I can do it anyone can do it it’s little souffle but you can do very easily always say that word again well we would say souffle but it doesn’t quite proud to say with you’re not wearing a beret let’s put it that way difference friends you know the classic souffle it’s got Santa curing it it’s very easy to do eggs wheat milk butter got your soup PA and if you have this is a technique with with it it’s blows very well and I really recommends a child a from the new world needs a we have these lactic notes that when we find in the cheese as well and and they’ve got as well the majority of the fruits it’s really you know but we get through to metro food character and we made that for apologies we don’t we don’t want to my view red wine something sweetened and balanced hmm okay okay but there’s a question here from Claire Jackson about what makes the holes in the blue mold I want to come back to that that’s a really into question I’m just going to put up what I what I’m what I brought up tonight which is the the flock which is that sort of I mean it’s basically a heavy alcohol I’m an alcohol then what I’m looking for grape juice and where they take completely lost it it’s boozy wine but it comes across as quite sweet and full of great flavors which I brought back from holiday as you do I’m sure everyone out there knows that experience and it actually tastes really nice it’s got a kind of pungent very light brandy note but in the kind of apricot elderflower kind of experience which is working very well for me right let’s get that now the next question we’ve got here is what makes the holes in the brew milk she doesn’t mean the holes in the blue mold she means the holes which become blue I’m gonna go over this and then you can tell me I’m wrong and the answer is the holes are basically already there are they so the curd is only loosely packed together giving space for these holes to become coated they bloom or them am i right about that you’re right I just want to mention that this is one of them of the main aspects of the cheese making of blue cheese is you want to steer very slowly and during the long time the grains on your in your town so that they don’t stick together and you have hair between between the grains and and you tell more yeah very different to the way the master central putting blue cheese together very different the British but you’ve got lots of different interpretations so we’ve started off with our Santa ger widely available very center of the everybody’s gonna like this spectrum and now we’re going to pop further south and talk about rockfall it’s actually much more dry it’s drier the landscape are a bit more money more whose time it’s it’s much more for you raised you read raising because cattle wouldn’t behave very well in this starting this drier environment and one of the pain and the best definition of what’s worked for is was given to me by the cheese maker of the Technion primarily a few years ago when I visited them and it’s really the work for is the alchemy between the knowledge of man and horse Kyle who still territory well nothing was possible in front of the alchemy be harmony between man and the work okay well I’m getting the video ready can you just talk about the fact that we’ve got these can blue caves these can Blue Hills and the fluorines that are coming down and I’ll see if I can make this element understand so millions of years ago there was volcanic activity we said it’s a volcanic region and it created the rock to slip and to get pictures and these fissures are still here today and they are allowing the air to circulate into all over all the pain this is a multi-encoder could combo and a man have in the ground and the air is still is going all the way through the fluid through the fissures in the stone to us today and to we’re watching here is the home value course the course is a plateau and as you can see I think this is a good one that show that in these pictures that we call it floating we’ve got a speculation and this is a very natural tima type limitation to make conditioning or air conditioning we’re naturally we’re gonna have a ventilation inside the cave that men die and and allow the maturation of the cheese they’ll have a girl further Fillion recharge itself of humidity of moisture and this moisture will give indicate 95 percent and these 95 percent all types of condition for for the moments to develop together with temperature between 8 and 12 degree doesn’t it doesn’t move much movement at and to give you an idea in Knoxville city in the village we would hear the temperature in the winter can drop minus 16 degrees and in the summer we go towards 40 degrees in decay all year round the temperature is still resisters what nature can remember the people in these regionals really know how to observe that naked how many ways I mean not as much as you do but I understand the rock for has been around for five hundred plus years and Charles the 6th of France or something like that said to some guy who was trying to flog him some cheap rock for this is not good enough only the people can rock will make problem rock for and in fact effectively created the first PDA oh five hundred years ago and is that true yeah that’s true that’s true it’s even more than the first thing you actually the first Kira food it’s the first Kadir food that was that was created actually the PTO was official in 1995 this is the first time so let’s have a look at this video Jesus granddaddy of French cheese I mean so I’m putting that up there could we get a bit right so the first thing to notice about this Jesus this is much wetter than the centre girl or in fact we’re about to find the blood again why is it so wet yeah because we want to keep we’re gonna keep more moisture inside the cheese cuz as you see as well I think it was better when you were Charlie Charlie but the cadastre horse are much bigger there’s much more motive development in this cheese and the moisture inside the street who is allowed more development we allow the growth so that’s why when we open the cheese we’re gonna get a bit a bit more of its way that that’s released now we open the cheese so it’s it’s normal and we also want to find yeah big big caverns and the strength of the Penicillium odd name of this is the thinnest beyond 40 not uniquely in rock for I mean you have unique strains penisy Rock 40 is a is a global model it’s found all over the world within the 140 I’ve heard your cheese maestro’s talk to me about how you have specific strains and of course I believed every word I believed everywhere so so the other thing about this chase that people will be wanting to know is this is thought to be one of the saltiest cheese’s in the spectrum isn’t it yeah we want to destroy well let’s get on with that it was a bad idea you know we say French people we’re better it’s completely amazed and another one the real miss it doesn’t have more it doesn’t have more salt it’s really here what we didn’t say it’s we are in presence of of sheep milk so it’s different milk properties and the milk the third will absorb we absorb much more more salt but in relation we don’t have that much more salt but the salt again will be necessary the making but it really has the level of absorption and the level of perception of sorts and yes these trees you don’t have to get out of your fridge more than 10 15 minutes because it brings strong really pretty quickly you know ship milk will give more fat to the malts and it will allow more quickly of development and so yeah it’s it’s really really strong and intense so I think it’s time to move on to the center girl available just about everybody who’s listening very widely spread nice easy eating clean cream Center rock for punchy a smaller number of people who love it but the people who love it really love it it’s kind of huge some people have called it the the foie gras of cheese you push it against your top palate with your with your tongue and it gives a little bit of resistance but then it breaks open and the flavors just come through and it’s it’s a very powerful subtle but it’s not everyone’s taste and it’s just the people who love it like me just think it’s the best cheese north now we’re gonna move on to achieve that’s the blood of herbs so go bang or oh you want some Mombasa of course you do yeah I want some on by the egg for the rock for we want to balance the set and the gross forest notes intense saltiness we want to balance it with sweet and you know again very fruity truthful to a beautiful character why why not if you can very easy and simple to do but I do want to touch up man one of the best tips you will get today mom pass yak is as good as Sauternes but half the price so over all those people out there thinking they want to so turn they want to bring the price down mom pays yet that’s your answer okay so last one up I want to talk about the blur to burn because this is it’s a very mainstream cheese in France isn’t it no Amy but it’s rarely seen here yeah we don’t see that much pretty much Christmas it’s very seasonal unfortunately because it’s it’s a very nice cheese but very sauce is something you will come from the east and then come from there they messy so tight so it’s found in many different organizations again it’s cow Moo burial cow milk it’s 20-day 28 days maturation we need this for the certain humor we’re talking about fifty days and for the drug for about ninety days okay not about at least 90 days and the brutal Bell is just one month 30 days so it’s it’s more you know it’s it’s not a bad thing it’s more simple it’s a classic French blue sky classic French boot style it’s you can say that mode is devil but it’s not as huge you know the whores are not as huge as in the rock world that you’ve just still and they’re in terms of flavor as well is it’s it’s a well balance between you know firmness but also creamy and so big just sort of more um I know triples and cracks really on my bit so so what I’m hearing from you is that blood vernie’s without being disrespectful that’s like a peasant’s cheese it’s like everywhere lots of different makers over a wide region probably a lot of local variations and I would imagine dozens and dozens of recipes that go with this because every household is going yeah absolutely absolutely in one produ one she’s makin another daily fight you will find some subtle differences this one is really is we you know driven by milk it milk cooked roasted notes character this is leaves listing into into this you can find it in many of them favoritism I think this is my favorite tonight and what really interesting about this not really lots of things but I was you sent me a nice big chunk he must have sent me about sort of 600 grams which of course I did some extensive research on it was but interesting like it has a salty character but more so when cold and as it warmed up the flavors balance down is what as Jesus I think is quite robust and rude when cold but interesting and complex went back at room temperature I sort of developing a theory about this all different cheeses respond differently to temperatures as in eating temperatures and this one was a really interesting learning for him yeah really nice I agree very nice also inside that good slider this is the pioneer polymer and raspberry I really really loved it with with this one and the rhythm and that before that’s really interesting yes we’re looking for so fruit infused cider with a bit about well yeah like you know this is like a fruit juice but it’s just it’s not cider its grapes okay no me you’ve got a treat for us now you are gonna cook for us a crap now what could be more French than a lady with a beret cooking the crap so basically I have made some crepes this weekend I’ve got one more for you I’ve never done that in front of a camera [Music] very visited quite you know and which do you make you crap well then what you wanna do is just very simple you get for just a piece like that just a piece like that in the middle of your craft are we gonna have if you can see some tests just on one side we get it some space on the sides and to finish we’re just going to drop a little bit of honey this is from excel honey on the past and once you come back you’ve got here your rockfall that’s going to naturally mount on the crack because of the one oneness of the cred and we’ll just we’ll just shut it like that and just enjoy and delight with our nice pairing everyone can do it I could the piece if cheese child yeah yeah crack was wrong and and once it’s one it’s warm you just put it and it’s gonna melt naturally on top of your of your crap amazing I’m sorry I wish I could send it to you but I’m going to have to eat it myself well on that note on that note thank you so much now Amy for joining us and telling us about the master central and the blue cheese is repealing a real focus of today is if we can bring me back in there we go um shall we yes back in the middle of screen and it’s been a pleasure talking to you now we have got lined up I think it’s quite a long way off for these like August or something but we’re going to start we’re going to come back and everyone I’m going to talk about the Pyrenees in the Basque Country well yeah looking forward to it we’re gonna go there’s a southwest of France I’ve got many older delights for you from this region one of the best the welds are from here as well um I saw Cal Hopkins up on the notes there she knows my all-time favorite cheese probably is one of the Oscar Artie’s awesome Orson G um so I’m gonna say thank you very much thank you very much for joining us and thank you Tony looking forward to seeing you soon thank you very much see you bye well that was Noemi thank you very much everybody for listening I hope you enjoyed our first program in League god door there for Mazda France because let’s be honest if the French didn’t invent it they pretend they did day there I’ve got some of the greatest motion cheese’s in the world and they have done a very good job of preserving the heritage that we’ve had to rediscover in the UK and we well they’ve done a good job of it and it’s great to see those cheeses being flourished and still full of cuisine still full of toy are still full of community so come see us and always for that but that doesn’t mean we’re not planning on with interesting stuff all the best thank you very much living this to tonight is cheese night and I am now going to use the magic technology to cider and say good night from me bye bye